Wild Swimming Adventures in the Hebrides: Coll, Gunna & Mull
A Bleary-Eyed Start for a Sea Swim Adventure
The day began brutally early. My alarm went off at 3:45am after barely any sleep. Late the previous evening, CalMac ferries had sent word that our departure was an hour earlier than planned. Our new meet time: 4:45am.
Through bleary eyes, I was grateful to Lynda for putting the kettle on. A quick tea, bags packed, and off we went, walking through Oban’s dark streets to the ferry terminal. For a moment, with the doors still locked and no signs of life, we wondered if this early start was a hoax. Eventually, a hi-vis-clad worker arrived to let us in, and soon we were boarding with a group of excited Venture Trust teenagers.
Ferry Views: Islands of the Inner Hebrides
The two-and-a-half-hour ferry crossing was classic Hebrides: dramatic light shifts, drizzle, and unforgettable views of the Isle of Eigg, Staffa, and the Treshnish Isles.
Landing on the Isle of Coll, we walked past dozing sheep to meet our rib from Coastal Connections, captained by Struan with his crew and wildlife guide Ben. The plan for the day: a swim off the Isle of Gunna, a glimpse of Tiree, and then a wild swim at Tobermory waterfall on Mull.
Wild Swimming at Gunna: Seals, Shags, and Turquoise Water
Approaching Gunna, the sheltered bay looked idyllic. The rocks were alive with seabirds—shags—perched in their hundreds. A seal’s head popped up, curious but distant.
It was time for the first wild swim. Entry was less than graceful: a bounce-and-splash into turquoise water, five metres deep with a sandy bottom. A slight tidal current tugged us sideways, but it was a short crossing to the beach.
On land, the island was breathtaking. Golden sand dunes, dramatic striped rocks in greys, silvers, and pinks, and swathes of kelp washed ashore.
Gunna itself is fascinating. Nestled between Coll and Tiree, it’s only 500 metres wide at its widest point and completely uninhabited—apart from a single holiday house. These days it belongs mostly to seabirds, seals, and, seasonally, sheep brought over from Coll. Remote, wild, and beautiful, it’s the perfect wild swimming spot.
A Glimpse of Tiree Before Heading to Mull
After a windswept clothes change, we carried on towards Tiree. One of our group, Hela, had missed out on visiting the island for her 70th birthday due to storms, so it felt special to bring her here—even if only by water.
But the seas were getting rougher, with big erratic waves. Once Struan opened up the throttle, the rib skimmed more easily through the swell. I promptly fell asleep and woke up in the calmer Sound of Mull, ready for our next swim.
Sea Swimming at Tobermory Waterfall
At Tobermory, we stopped at a small waterfall I’d swum before—but this time the water was completely different. Last time it had been dark and silty after heavy rain. Today it shimmered jade-turquoise, clear enough to dive down and explore.
I spotted starfish and, more excitingly, the Common Sea Urchin (Echinus esculentus)—also known as the Edible Sea Urchin. These pinkish-purple creatures are the largest sea urchins found around the Hebrides. Their roe is considered a delicacy in many parts of the world.
Lion’s Mane jellyfish drifted nearby, but we avoided stings and swam carefully back to the rib.
Post-Swim Hot Chocolate in Tobermory
Once ashore, there was only one destination on my mind: the Tobermory Chocolate Shop. Last time I’d had the best hot chocolate ever, and this time was no different.
Faced with the choice of small, regular, or Death by Chocolate, I foolishly played it safe with a regular. Still delicious—especially with cream and marshmallows—but definitely not big enough. Thankfully, Lynda ordered a pot of tea and ginger cake, so between us we warmed up nicely while the rain hammered down outside.
Heading Back via Duart Castle
The journey back to Oban included a dramatic stop at Duart Castle on Mull—always spectacular from the sea. And just to add to the day’s surprises, I bumped into Struan’s identical twin on the pier. Nobody had warned me they were twins, and the resemblance was uncanny.
Finally, it was time for a hot shower and the long drive home, still buzzing from a day of Hebridean wild swimming, wildlife sightings, laughter, and of course, that hot chocolate.
✨ Want to join us next time?
This was a recce trip for our 2026 West Coast Adventures. (We promise there won’t be any super-early morning ferries to catch – just fabulous days adventuring on the smaller boat from Oban).
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