Wild Swimming Scotland: Easdale Island Slate Quarries, Rainbows & Oban Fish and Chips

After a whole load of toddler shenanigans, I finally set off on the two-and-a-half-hour drive to Oban to meet Lynda at around two o’clock. Thankfully, traffic through Fort William wasn’t the nightmare it had been last time, and I even managed a sneaky stop at M&S to stock up on swim snacks!

I rolled into town almost exactly on time—though the parking situation was a bit confusing—and then hopped into Lynda’s car. We headed down to Ellenabeich, where we joined the rest of the group and waited for the teeny, tiny ferry to Easdale Island.

Ferry Rides and Rainbows (Bridge Over the Atlantic, Isle of Seil)

On the way, the rain absolutely poured down, and things didn’t look promising. But as we boarded the ferry, the sky began to shift. Looking back towards Seil (which you cross before reaching Ellenabeich via the famous Bridge over the Atlantic), I spotted the most beautiful rainbow arching across the sky. That little flash of colour gave me hope we’d get a good weather window for our wild swim.

Arriving on Easdale is like stepping into another world. There are no cars—just upturned wheelbarrows with house names painted on them, ready for residents and visitors to cart belongings across the island. A charming little stone ferry office greets you, and on this trip, I noticed a new addition—a tiny play park. My toddler would love it, so I’ll definitely have to bring him back sometime.

We passed the museum (sadly not open), and glanced at The Puffer (the island’s pub/restaurant). It didn’t look very lively, but the lights were on, and I caught a glimpse of someone inside. I thought maybe we’d stop in for a hot chocolate later… though the weather had other plans.

Into the Slate Quarries

With more rain looming, we decided on just one swim. The first swimmable quarry felt like the best bet—steep, yes, but easier to get into than the famous L-shaped “swimming pool,” which involves a fair bit of scrambling over loose slate.

Getting changed at the side, the water looked an incredible deep jade. That first plunge was bracing—probably around 15°C.  Once you’re in, the chill melts away, and it feels like you could swim forever.

The quarry is dramatic. One moment, you can touch the bottom, the next it drops off into green-black depths. Cue lots of giggling: “one more step and… nope, can’t touch anymore!” Classic open-water swimming antics.

The visibility wasn’t quite as crisp as my last blue-sky visit—a slight haze this time—but it was still beautiful. Brackish, slightly salty, and utterly inviting. None of us wanted to get out.

What struck me most was the shift from my first visit. Back then, swimming alone, the deep water spooked me a bit. This time, in a group, it felt joyful, safe, even playful. Easdale is magical solo, but with company, it’s even better. Wild swimming community for the win!

Wandering Easdale (Heather, Honesty Boxes & Quarry Nicknames)

After drying off, we wandered across the island, exploring other quarries (I’ve swum in all of them before). The heather was unreal—vivid purple against the brooding grey clouds. I could not stop taking photos.

I took a little detour to the southwest corner pool. We looped back to the village, where some of the group picked up handmade soaps from the honesty box shop.

Back at the ferry, the ferryman shared the local nicknames: the “swimming pool” (the L-shaped one), the “stone-skimming pool,” and—less glamorously—the “rubbish pool,” where storms wash in all sorts of debris. I’ve swum there and enjoyed it, but now I know what the locals call it… slightly less appealing!

Easdale in the Guidebook

If you want to dig into the history of Easdale, its flooded slate quarries, and the best swimming spots (with tips on safe entry points), I’ve covered it all in my book Swimming Wild in Scotland.

Easdale might be tiny, but it has a fascinating past—from its slate industry heyday to the storm of 1881 that changed the island forever. These quarries are not just beautiful swim spots; they’re steeped in stories. The guidebook also includes detailed directions, access info, and recommendations for food stops like The Puffer and The Oyster.

Homeward Bound (and Essential Oban Fish & Chips)

We caught the ferry back and piled into the car again. One quick stop at the Bridge over the Atlantic for photos, then back to Oban for the only correct ending to a day of ferries and quarries: fish and chips (at Oban Fish & Chip Shop – my favourite!) Perfection.

Practical Bits (for fellow swimmers & day trippers)

• Location: Easdale Island via Ellenabeich, Isle of Seil (Argyll & Bute), reached over the Bridge over the Atlantic.

• Vibe: No cars, wheelbarrows for luggage, compact village, museum, The Puffer pub/restaurant. Home to the World Stone Skimming Championships!

• Swimming: Multiple slate quarries; only three have suitable entries. Steep drop-offs; water can be brackish. Map and lots more detailed information in my guidebook.

• Family note: New play park since my last visit—My little one would be thrilled.

• Best paired with: An Oban day trip, rainbow chasing, and salty chips on the harbour.

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