Cairngorms Winter Retreat: Ice-Breaking Dips & a Snowy Highland Adventure – Winter Swimming Scotland
Returning to Inshriach House for a Winter Swimming Escape
In November, we hosted our first Cairngorms Winter Retreat of the season — a special one for me, as it marked our first time back at Inshriach House (the beloved base for our retreats) since I had my little one, now a toddler. Although I live here in the Cairngorms, returning to Inshriach House felt like returning home – the perfect place to host this winter swimming Scotland adventure.
A spell of heavy snow had transformed the area into a true winter swimming paradise. Inshriach looked like a snow globe, and thankfully the snowploughs and gritters had done their work, clearing all the roads before our guests arrived.
Swimmers joined us from across Scotland, England and two all the way from Germany. We gathered around the dining table for Pauline’s exquisite roasted tomato and pepper soup and her famous haggis sausage rolls. Pauline, our incredible private chef, would go on to spoil us for the full retreat.
The SwimWild guides for this retreat: me (Alice), Becca and Lynda — all cold-water swimming experts, with many winters and multiple ice miles under their belts.
First Swim: Glenmore’s Snow-Laden Magic
We bundled into our community-hire minibus with the brilliant Lynda driving us just 8 miles up to Glenmore Forest – which had transformed into a winter fairytale of snow-laden pines and soft evening light.
Arriving at Loch Morlich, the beach was pristine, the loch still, and the sky washed with pastel colours. A perfect introduction to wild swimming Scotland in its winter glory.
For some, it was their first true winter dip. Gabi, one of our German guests, had one of her first ever cold-water swims, holding Lynda’s hand as she stepped in — and absolutely loved it. Others stayed in longer, soaking in the spectacular views.
Afterwards, we warmed up with hot drinks, flapjacks and brownies on the snow-covered beach before returning to Inshriach for sticky lemon drizzle cake, roaring fires and cosy chats. Dinner – which included a gorgeous beef ragù — finished off a brilliant first day.
Day Two: -18°C, Singing Ice & Riverbank Sauna Warmth
We woke to a rosy, glowing sky and snow sparkling across the hills. Overnight temperatures had plummeted: Pauline recorded –12°C early in the morning, and a nearby station reported –18°C. True winter swimming conditions!
Loch Vaa: Crisp Ice, Crystal Water & Cairngorms Beauty
After a delicious breakfast, we headed to the beautiful spring-fed Loch Vaa, well known among wild swimmers for its clarity.
As we approached, we saw the loch was partially covered in ice – no sledgehammer required as there was an ice-free section for swimming, but breathtakingly beautiful. The ice made magical tweeting sounds as it cracked and people skimmed shards of broken ice across the surface. A truly magical icy swim experience.
We dipped, laughed, explored, and wandered round to the old boathouse to take in the mountain views.
River Spey Dip & Cosy Log-Cabin Sauna
Back at Inshriach, soup awaited before we walked across the fields to the River Spey and the gorgeous timber sauna hidden among juniper and pine.
After a refreshing dip in the river, we warmed up inside, steam rising as we looked out at snow-heavy branches. It felt like a Scandinavian retreat — atmospheric, peaceful and perfect for anyone who enjoys the wellbeing benefits often associated with cold water therapy (though, of course, we were mostly in it for the fun, the adventure and the connection).
After a few dips in the river, people decided to cool down by rolling in the snow!
As dusk fell, the warm glow of Inshriach House welcomed us home.
Inside, it was time for Allison’s birthday cake — one of Pauline’s masterpieces, a glorious stem ginger cake. The surprise was only half-successful (she caught sight of it while fetching milk!) but the celebration was still joyful.
Dinner was another feast – Cheesy Leek & Potato Pies, Butternut Squash Gratin,
Root Veg Mash, Green Beans & Crispy Kale – and guests headed to bed wondering how things could possibly get better…
Day Three: Misty Forests, Ice-Breaking Delight & Sunshine Sauna Magic
Rain overnight had melted some snow but left icy patches underfoot. We set off towards Loch Insh for our morning swim.
Walking through the RSPB woodland, mist drifted low among the trees, creating an almost surreal atmosphere. I’d briefly considered taking the sledgehammer but decided we wouldn’t need it.
I was wrong.
The sheltered bay was beautifully iced over.
Luckily, it was thin, easily hand-breakable ice — perfect for a safe but exhilarating ice-breaking swim. We updated our safety plan and briefed the guests on how to safely get into the ice. Lynda and I cleared an initial channel and then guided everyone through this memorable experience. For many, it was a first — and an absolute highlight!
After hot drinks and traybakes, we walked along the shoreline before heading into the Boathouse Cafe at Loch Insh. Then we headed back out to a surprise extra sauna session at Sauna Cairngorms (located at Loch Insh Outdoor Centre).
As the mist lifted, blue sky appeared and sunshine lit the snowy hills. When we dipped between sauna rounds, the sun shone on the water — that blissful combination of cold-water swimming and winter sunshine.
Lunch back at Inshriach featured roasted carrot and feta soup with chunky walnut pesto and freshly made wraps. Divine.
Feshiebridge Wild Swim
Next stop: Feshiebridge – a rare and exciting winter swim location. After carfully negotiating the steeper slope access down to the our entry point, we dipped in the gorgeous, chilly river. Pip and Ilka swam impressively far upstream before drifting back.
Gin Distillery Evening
That evening, we headed to the Inshriach Gin Distillery where Walter, the owner of Inshriach, shared stories of how it all began, how their shed won “Shed of the Year,” and what’s coming next.
Some guests stocked up on gin before returning for the evening feast – a spectacular Mexican meal that had Allison declaring it “this might be the best food I’ve ever eaten!”
Final Day: Silent Snow, Castle Reflections & A Perfect Last Dip
Our last morning began with a hearty cooked breakfast – bacon, egg, tattie scones and porridge – before heading to Loch an Eilein.
The calm was extraordinary. We stood quietly just to take in the silence, the birds, and the ducks who sounded suspiciously like they were laughing at us.
We walked to the viewpoint opposite the castle and entered via the safest route. A few adventurous swimmers crossed right over; most enjoyed a refreshing final dip.
After a stomp to the end of the loch and a peek at the tiny Loch an Eilein sauna, we visited the shop before heading back to Inshriach for our farewell feast.
A Wild Swimming Holiday in Scotland to Remember
Our final lunch – a Sunday Roast of Inshriach Lamb with all the trimmings – was so good that several guests headed to the farm shop and freezer to take home Inshriach goodies. We shared highlights — Snowy Loch Morlich, the ice-breaking swim, the saunas, and the wonderful group and beautiful sense of connection. The food was also a huge highlight for everyone!
It was a spectacular return to hosting our Cairngorms Winter Retreat at Inshriach House after two years away.
We have another retreat in January, and although many assume that’s the best month for snow, this was actually our second snow-covered November in recent years. Winter swimming in Scotland is always a surprise – sometimes the water temperature is 7°C and it’s sunny, sometimes there is wild wind and rain, sometimes deep snow and occasionally ice (water closer to 0°C) . That’s the magic.
A snow-dusted, soul-warming, wild-swimming, ice-breaking Cairngorms adventure.
I can’t wait for the next one.
Winter Swimming Scotland -Don’t Miss the Next Cairngorms Retreat
If reading this has you dreaming of snowy dips, ice-tinkling lochs and cosy evenings by the fire, you’re not alone. Here is the information on these retreats. Our January retreat is already fully booked, but next season’s dates will be announced very soon.
If you’d like to be the first to hear, and have the best chance of securing a spot, register your interest now!
We’d absolutely love to welcome you on a future adventure.
